Silicone sealants are waterproof, flexible and ideal for wet areas like bathrooms and kitchens. They remain elastic over time and handle movement well but aren't paintable.

Acrylic sealants are paintable and good for interior gaps and cracks but aren't suitable for constant water exposure. They're perfect for finishing work where you need to match paint colours.

Hybrid polymer sealants (SMP/MS Polymer) combine the best of both worlds—paintable like acrylic yet waterproof and flexible like silicone. They extrude smoothly with minimal effort, making application faster and less fatiguing on long jobs. Hybrid polymers offer excellent adhesion to most substrates without primer, low odour, and can be applied in wet conditions. Ideal for exterior joints, window perimeters, and multi-substrate bonding.

Yes, bathroom-grade silicone sealants work well for kitchen benchtops. Look for mould-resistant formulations that meet Australian Standards for food-safe applications. These provide excellent water resistance and durability for benchtop installations.

For cabinet construction, PVA wood glue is the standard for interior applications. For moisture-prone areas or structural bonding, use polyurethane adhesive which offers superior water resistance and bond strength.

Edge banding and laminate work typically requires contact adhesive for instant grab and professional results.

Most silicone sealants skin over in 10-20 minutes but require 24-48 hours for full cure. Thicker beads and high humidity can extend cure times.

Avoid exposing the sealant to water during the cure period. For critical applications, wait the full cure time before putting into service.

Yes, many substrates require primer for structural silicone applications. Porous materials like concrete, masonry and some metals need primer to ensure proper adhesion and meet structural engineering requirements.

Always check the manufacturer's technical data sheet for substrate-specific primer requirements. Structural applications must comply with Australian facade standards.

For architectural glazing, use neutral-cure structural silicone specifically designed for glass-to-metal and glass-to-aluminium bonding. Products like Bostik V60 offer high modulus strength, excellent UV resistance, and meet Australian facade engineering standards.

Structural glazing sealants must provide long-term elasticity to accommodate building movement, thermal expansion, and wind loads while maintaining weatherproof seals.

Yes, but surface preparation is critical. Powder-coated surfaces must be clean, dry and free from oils or release agents. Neutral-cure silicones or hybrid polymers work best as they won't cause discolouration or adhesion failure.

For structural applications on powder coat, test adhesion on a small area first or consult the sealant manufacturer's compatibility chart. Some powder coats may require light abrasion or primer for optimal bond strength.

Acetoxy silicone (acid-cure) releases acetic acid during curing, giving off a vinegar smell. It cures faster and is more economical but can corrode metals and isn't suitable for natural stone, concrete, or mirrors.

Neutral-cure silicone releases alcohol during curing with minimal odour. It's compatible with virtually all building materials including metals, stone, and mirrors. Use neutral-cure for architectural applications, sensitive substrates, and where corrosion is a concern.

Cut away the bulk of old silicone with a sharp blade or scraper, being careful not to damage the substrate. Use a silicone remover solvent to dissolve residual material—these products soften the remaining silicone for easy removal.

Clean the joint thoroughly with methylated spirits or isopropyl alcohol to remove all traces of old sealant, soap, and oils. The surface must be completely clean and dry before applying new sealant to ensure proper adhesion.